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WORLD ANTHROPOLOGICAL UNION

CONGRESS 2024​

Paper

Traditional and borrowed food in East Slavic migrant communities living in South America

presenters

    GLEB PILIPENKO

    Nationality: Россия

    Residence: Россия

    Institute of Slavic Studies, Russian Academy of Sciences

    Presence:Face to Face/ On Site

The paper discusses the nutritional practices of East Slavic migrants living in Argentina and Uruguay as their identity marker. The purpose of this paper is to find out how the traditional cuisine of the migrants is preserved, how it changes and to what extent dishes and related vocabulary are borrowed. This topic has not been studied on this material. Ukrainians, migrants from Galicia and Volhynia in the late 19th and first half of the 20th centuries, Belarusians, Russian migrants, followers of the religious movement "New Israel", as well as Russian Old Believers were the interlocutors during my field work carried out in 2015-2023 in Argentina and Uruguay. Narratives about food were recorded, as well as recipes of dishes. Migrants keep their food, which is one of their main identity markers. Traditional national dishes become especially relevant in the context of the rapid loss of language. Dumplings (varenyky) are popular among Ukrainians. At the same time, people from Galicia call them pyrohy, and people from Volhynia call them varenyky. Vareniki are also common among South Russian migrants in the Rio Negro department in Uruguay, and Russian Old Believers call dumplings with cheese – tvorozhniki. The ceremonial dishes are particularly worth noting. Ukrainians cook kutya – wheat with honey for Christmas and Epiphany. The group of Old Believers should be mentioned separately, since their community is the most closed of all for confessional reasons, and there are many food prohibitions in their kitchen. Along with preserving the culinary recipes of their ancestors, these communities adopt the food practices of the peoples living with them. Mate drink, grilled meat (asado) became very popular. In the future, it is planned to publish the recipes of dishes collected among the descendants of East Slavic migrants.

Keywords:

food, East Slavic communities, South America, field research, identity