As shown by alimentary studies in the paradigm of anthropology (for example, Dietler 2007; Montanari 2021; Domenici 2021), food is not only a means of forming, embodying and demonstrating of identity, but at the same time also a "political object" that plays the role of a tool for broadcasting dissent, protest and resistance/ This is proved by the example of the Italian region of Sardinia, whose population, historically defending independence from "external" conquerors, including Italy, has been following the path of searching for a local identity in recent decades, and at the same time protecting and revaluing local traditional culture. Under these conditions, two local traditional food products – moonshine and casu martzu (the so-called rotten cheese or cheese with worms), the production of which is prohibited by Italian and European legislation, as field studies show, not only become a symbol of opposition to the central government and the embodiment of their own identity for the population of the region. According to the mass testimony of respondents in various parts of the island, the consumption of these products, closely related to the traditional ceremonial sphere of local culture, in the vision of the population in recent years has turned into a particularly significant and iconic protest act, and the taste of products, precisely because of their "prohibition", according to consumers, is changing, gaining special attractiveness and special tasteyness.