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WORLD ANTHROPOLOGICAL UNION

CONGRESS 2024​

Paper

LOCAL FOOD AND IDENTITY AT XYLAGANI (THRACE, GREECE)

presenters

    Ksenia Klimova

    Nationality: Россия

    Residence: MOSCOW

    Institute for Slavic Studies

    Presence:Face to Face/ On Site

    Elena Uzeneva

    Presence:Face to Face/ On Site

Keywords:

food culture, field research, cultural identity, Greeks, ethnolinguistics

Abstract:

The paper explores the significance of the traditional food as a fundamental element of ethnic identity, focusing on the Greeks of Thrace. The objective of this study is to analyze the verbal, material, and behavioral aspects of Greek food culture using ethnolinguistic and socio-anthropological approaches. The study is based on data collected during fieldwork carried out at Xylagani (ocated in the Rhodope prefecture of Thrace, Greece) in 2023. Situated 17 km from Komotini, Xylagani had a population of 1,180 residents according to the 2011 census. The ancestors of the present inhabitants of Xylagani came to the area after the population exchanges with Bulgaria in the years 1924-1925, originated from Eastern Rumelia, specifically the villages Grand Bogialiki and Ntoganovo of the area of Kavakli, today known as Topologkrant, north of Adrianople. In August 2023, the Xilagani Cultural Society hosted a presentation and tasting of the local cuisine at the Folklore Museum, accompanied by a narrative on the village's cultural traditions and history. The showcased local dishes included: "τσιγαρίδες" (pork chunks), "ρίμπνικ" (meat with rice), "ταρατόρ" (cold cucumber and yogurt soup), "ρεβιθάδα" (chickpea soup), "αυγά με κρεμμύδια" (eggs with onions), "λουκάνικα με αυγά" (sausages with eggs), "σουσαμόπιτα" (sesame pie), "χαλβάς" (halva), along with a local beverage called "σερμπέτι" (water with vinegar and sugar). Local cuisine in Xylagani serves as a tool for cultural society activists to preserve their cultural identity and embodies a blend of Bulgarian and Greek culinary traditions stemming from the historical background of the village's residents.